At a blind tasting of the 2005 vintage four out of the six top wines were from Gimblett Gravels. Chateau Lafite-Rothschild came second whilst Mouton Rothschild came fifth.
Overshadowed by the huge success of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc and Central Otago Pinot Noir, it has been easy to forget about New Zealand’s other main wine growing districts. Until recently that is! Every time I pick up a wine magazine or open an e-newsletter, two words jump out at me – Hawke’s Bay. The producers of Hawke’s Bay are finally reaping some of the rewards of their tenacity and diligence, particularly with respect to the Gimblett Gravels appellation. It seems that the wine world in general has suddenly woken up to the fact that New Zealand can compete on the world stage with varieties other than Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.
Located on the south east coast of the North Island, the Hawke’s Bay region includes the towns of Napier, Hastings and Havelock North. Hastings is considered to be the capital of the region. Three fast flowing rivers pass from rugged mountains in the west to the coastal plains of the east. It is on these Heretaunga Plains that the vast majority of vines are found. Marist missionaries brought the first vines to Hawke’s Bay in 1851, presumably for sacramental purposes.
However, by 1900 commercial sales were recorded at the Mission and wealthy landowners had also begun to plant vines. The region became New Zealand’s most important wine producing area and by 1905 Spanish immigrant, Anthony Vidal, arrived as Hawke’s Bay first commercial winemaker. Due to the vast expansion of Marlborough, the actual area of vines that covers the Hawke’s Bay region, now only represents 18% of the New Zealand total. This is despite the fact that the number of wine producers in Hawke’s Bay has doubled to 68 in the decade from 1998 to 2008, and that the area under vines has increased by over 160% in that same period. It is remarkable to note exactly how much of an impact Central Otago has had on the wine world when it only actually covers about 6% of the total area of vines.
The move away from the German hybrid Muller-Thurgau vine, which dominated New Zealand plantings until Chardonnay took over in 1992, was probably the most significant step towards redefining Hawke’s Bay as a quality wine producing region. With its main characteristics of early ripening and high yielding, Muller-Thurgau generated large quantities of low priced, low quality wine. Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon plantings became most prominent, whilst Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot also established their place in this warm, sunny region where the diversity of soils results in a full spectrum of varieties and styles.
As with so many wine producing regions it is difficult to make sweeping generalisations about the soil, although the alluvial soils of the plains are obviously the most fertile of the region. Almost 12 sub-regions exist within Hawke’s Bay but one particular sub-region has been highlighted above all the rest – Gimblett Gravels. Such was the belief in and commitment to the high quality that this sub-region could achieve, that very early on during its evolution as a wine growing area, local producers set out on a path to demarcate the area under the Gimblett Gravels appellation.
By 1981 production was established by producer CJ Pask and also the Irongate Vineyard. Enthusiasm for this special area of soil increased when names like Trinity Hill and Stonecroft joined the list of producers in the area. A deep layer of stones and shingle was deposited by the Ngaruroro River before it changed its course in 1867. The soil is particularly free draining so that little moisture is retained and essential nutrients are minimal. All these factors result in a natural de-vigoration of the vine, i.e. natural low-yielding.
The official Gimblett Gravels Wine Growing District was established in 2001. Strong branding and the critical acclaim that has been achieved have brought the region into focus on the world stage. At a blind tasting of the 2005 vintage held in Taupo, New Zealand and presided over by James Halliday, four out of six of the top wines were from Gimblett Gravels. Chateau Lafite-Rothschild came second whilst the Mouton Rothschild came fifth. For the rest of the Hawke’s Bay region such limelight and reflected glory can only be beneficial.
Tasted Wines
Vidal Chardonnay 2007
Spanish immigrant, Anthony Vidal, came to New Zealand in 1888 and spent some time growing grapes in other parts of the North Island before settling in Hawke’s Bay in 1905. He purchased a racing stable, converted it into a wine cellar and planted vines eventually producing very well regarded wines. Fortunes and quality ebbed and flowed until Villa Maria bought the company in 1976. Very pale in colour with lively green hues, the nose on this Chardonnay displays ripe stone fruit and rock melon characters with a hint of toasty vanilla oak. The palate is medium weight and quite fruit forward with plenty of ripe fruit flavours, a creamy texture and light oak element having had 60% fermented and aged in oak barriques. It has a refreshing finish brought about by the lively acidity. (Available at Wine Guru)
Morton Estate White Label Pinot Noir 2007
Hawke’s Bay is not a region of New Zealand that is normally readily associated with this capricious variety. Central Otago’s Pinots can be quite powerful and structured whilst Marlborough Pinots have a purity of fruit, are often lighter bodied and fragrant. Martinborough Pinot Noirs can have all these elements together with a complex earthy character. I believe Hawke’s Bay has some mileage to cover before it can begin to define a style it can call its own with this variety. The wine is medium density garnet with candied red fruit characters on the nose. A significant amount of oak treatment detracts from the fruit on the palate which does show some concentrated black cherry flavours. Only time will tell if the fruit element can come to the fore. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Lime Rock Pinot Noir 2006
This is a relative new comer to the Hawke’s Bay area having only produced their first vintage in 2004, however the wine maker (Rosie Butler) has been making wines for over 30 years. Lime Rock is found in the area known as Central Hawke’s Bay – a hilly sub-region which experiences a cooler climate than elsewhere. The family owned vineyards are between 230 and 270 metres above sea level and are all north facing. With a year longer in bottle than the previous Pinot Noir this example more readily expresses its correct varietal characteristics. The nose is fragrant with crushed summer red fruit and an undertone of attractive spice. Ripe plums, cherries and currants abound on the palate which is well balanced by a juicy acidity and low level, silken tannins. The oak influence has now mellowed so that it is an integral part of the wine rather than standing separately. (Available at Underground Wines)
Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2006
Syrah from Hawke’s Bay, but more particularly Gimblett Gravels, has been making increasingly bigger waves in the global wine press. The land for Trinity Hill was first purchased in 1993 and vines planted soon after. Although there are three partners (hence the Trinity) winemaker John Hancock seems to be the most visible party. John has certainly been a very vocal proponent of the Gimblett Gravels region although readily admits to the viticultural challenges that such an infertile area poses for producers. Notwithstanding Trinity Hill wines have become highly regarded, receiving top accolades and trophies at prestigious competitions around the world. They have also bravely, and successfully, planted alternative varietals such as Tempranillo and Arneis. Opaque crimson in colour, the Syrah displays dense, brooding black fruit on the nose with distinct pepper overtones as well as complex licorice and spice aromas. Very fine chalky but gripping tannins balance with the rich black fruit on the palate. The acid component ensures there is a good lift to the wine. It is extremely young and powerful with a concentration that needs time to evolve. I particularly enjoyed the savoury edge the wine displayed and would love to taste it again in another couple of years from now. (Available at The Cellar Door)
Vidal Syrah 2004
The eternal flame logo on Vidal’s labels denotes that passion still burns brightly at this long established estate. This continued passion is obvious in the quality of this wine. Deep crimson in colour with a maturing deep garnet rim, mulberries and blueberries with toasty, spicy oak aromas fill the glass. This wine has had the benefit of an extra two years in bottle (under screw cap, I hasten to add) and thus shows much more balance and complexity. Undoubtedly this wine would have been powerful in its youth, but it has evolved into a harmonious, elegant wine where all the elements blend seamlessly into each other on the palate. Concentrated yet vibrant spicy black fruit balance with ample acid freshness and very skilful toasty oak flavours. The tannins have mellowed but are still evident. With its long length of delicious flavours this is a very impressive wine. (Available at Wine Guru)
Crossroads Winery Cabernet Franc 2007
The company that owns Crossroads Winery in Hawke’s Bay, namely Ager Sectus, is probably better known here in Singapore for the wines they produce under The Crossings label from Marlborough. Not many 100% Cabernet Franc are produced in New Zealand – the majority of it is grown in the Hawke’s Bay region and is blended in with other classic Bordeaux varieties. The dense crimson colour with a vibrant hue on the rim and the lifted mulberry fruit aromas indicated ripening this variety in the warmer climes of Hawke’s Bay is not a problem. The palate displayed powerful black and juicy pastille fruit with fine but slightly astringent tannins. Charred oak characters were evidence of the 15 months the wine has spent maturing in French barrels. This would be an interesting wine to have another look at in about 12 months as at the moment it packs a powerful punch. (Available at Hai Choo Wines)
Crossroads Winery Talisman 2007
Little is given away about the composition of this wine on the label, other than that the blend changes from year to year. One source hinted at the inclusion of up to 6 different varieties – the main characteristics of the wine suggested that Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot would have played a large role in the 2007 vintage. The colour was inky black with an exceptionally thin but vibrant crimson rim. The nose was quite lifted with a slight alcoholic prickle and lots of licorice, spice, pepper and some jammy notes too. The full-bodied palate had concentrated black fruit with a lift coming from the slight minty flavour and gripping, astringent tannins. Roasted coffee and chocolate flavours were also evident. This is another powerful wine that is already gathering some complexity and has a lot of potential to develop further with careful cellaring. (Available at Hai Choo Wines)
Unison Classic Blend 2007
Bearing the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers District logo on its label, the wine is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from a 6 hectare vineyard planted in 1993 in this demarcated sub-region of Hawke’s Bay. Opaque in colour with a youthful hue of deep crimson there were fruitcake, spice and plum aromas together with abundant black fruit characters. It is full-bodied with ripe yet gripping tannins and good acidity so there is a strong backbone to the wine. However, the main focus is very much on the fruit of which it delivers plenty in a no-nonsense style. (Available from Underground Wines)
Suzanne Brocklehurst 12/11/09Spanish immigrant, Anthony Vidal, came to New Zealand in 1888 and spent some time growing grapes in other parts of the North Island before settling in Hawke’s Bay in 1905. He purchased a racing stable, converted it into a wine cellar and planted vines eventually producing very well regarded wines. Fortunes and quality ebbed and flowed until Villa Maria bought the company in 1976. Very pale in colour with lively green hues, the nose on this Chardonnay displays ripe stone fruit and rock melon characters with a hint of toasty vanilla oak. The palate is medium weight and quite fruit forward with plenty of ripe fruit flavours, a creamy texture and light oak element having had 60% fermented and aged in oak barriques. It has a refreshing finish brought about by the lively acidity. (Available at Wine Guru)
Morton Estate White Label Pinot Noir 2007
Hawke’s Bay is not a region of New Zealand that is normally readily associated with this capricious variety. Central Otago’s Pinots can be quite powerful and structured whilst Marlborough Pinots have a purity of fruit, are often lighter bodied and fragrant. Martinborough Pinot Noirs can have all these elements together with a complex earthy character. I believe Hawke’s Bay has some mileage to cover before it can begin to define a style it can call its own with this variety. The wine is medium density garnet with candied red fruit characters on the nose. A significant amount of oak treatment detracts from the fruit on the palate which does show some concentrated black cherry flavours. Only time will tell if the fruit element can come to the fore. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Lime Rock Pinot Noir 2006
This is a relative new comer to the Hawke’s Bay area having only produced their first vintage in 2004, however the wine maker (Rosie Butler) has been making wines for over 30 years. Lime Rock is found in the area known as Central Hawke’s Bay – a hilly sub-region which experiences a cooler climate than elsewhere. The family owned vineyards are between 230 and 270 metres above sea level and are all north facing. With a year longer in bottle than the previous Pinot Noir this example more readily expresses its correct varietal characteristics. The nose is fragrant with crushed summer red fruit and an undertone of attractive spice. Ripe plums, cherries and currants abound on the palate which is well balanced by a juicy acidity and low level, silken tannins. The oak influence has now mellowed so that it is an integral part of the wine rather than standing separately. (Available at Underground Wines)
Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2006
Syrah from Hawke’s Bay, but more particularly Gimblett Gravels, has been making increasingly bigger waves in the global wine press. The land for Trinity Hill was first purchased in 1993 and vines planted soon after. Although there are three partners (hence the Trinity) winemaker John Hancock seems to be the most visible party. John has certainly been a very vocal proponent of the Gimblett Gravels region although readily admits to the viticultural challenges that such an infertile area poses for producers. Notwithstanding Trinity Hill wines have become highly regarded, receiving top accolades and trophies at prestigious competitions around the world. They have also bravely, and successfully, planted alternative varietals such as Tempranillo and Arneis. Opaque crimson in colour, the Syrah displays dense, brooding black fruit on the nose with distinct pepper overtones as well as complex licorice and spice aromas. Very fine chalky but gripping tannins balance with the rich black fruit on the palate. The acid component ensures there is a good lift to the wine. It is extremely young and powerful with a concentration that needs time to evolve. I particularly enjoyed the savoury edge the wine displayed and would love to taste it again in another couple of years from now. (Available at The Cellar Door)
Vidal Syrah 2004
The eternal flame logo on Vidal’s labels denotes that passion still burns brightly at this long established estate. This continued passion is obvious in the quality of this wine. Deep crimson in colour with a maturing deep garnet rim, mulberries and blueberries with toasty, spicy oak aromas fill the glass. This wine has had the benefit of an extra two years in bottle (under screw cap, I hasten to add) and thus shows much more balance and complexity. Undoubtedly this wine would have been powerful in its youth, but it has evolved into a harmonious, elegant wine where all the elements blend seamlessly into each other on the palate. Concentrated yet vibrant spicy black fruit balance with ample acid freshness and very skilful toasty oak flavours. The tannins have mellowed but are still evident. With its long length of delicious flavours this is a very impressive wine. (Available at Wine Guru)
Crossroads Winery Cabernet Franc 2007
The company that owns Crossroads Winery in Hawke’s Bay, namely Ager Sectus, is probably better known here in Singapore for the wines they produce under The Crossings label from Marlborough. Not many 100% Cabernet Franc are produced in New Zealand – the majority of it is grown in the Hawke’s Bay region and is blended in with other classic Bordeaux varieties. The dense crimson colour with a vibrant hue on the rim and the lifted mulberry fruit aromas indicated ripening this variety in the warmer climes of Hawke’s Bay is not a problem. The palate displayed powerful black and juicy pastille fruit with fine but slightly astringent tannins. Charred oak characters were evidence of the 15 months the wine has spent maturing in French barrels. This would be an interesting wine to have another look at in about 12 months as at the moment it packs a powerful punch. (Available at Hai Choo Wines)
Crossroads Winery Talisman 2007
Little is given away about the composition of this wine on the label, other than that the blend changes from year to year. One source hinted at the inclusion of up to 6 different varieties – the main characteristics of the wine suggested that Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot would have played a large role in the 2007 vintage. The colour was inky black with an exceptionally thin but vibrant crimson rim. The nose was quite lifted with a slight alcoholic prickle and lots of licorice, spice, pepper and some jammy notes too. The full-bodied palate had concentrated black fruit with a lift coming from the slight minty flavour and gripping, astringent tannins. Roasted coffee and chocolate flavours were also evident. This is another powerful wine that is already gathering some complexity and has a lot of potential to develop further with careful cellaring. (Available at Hai Choo Wines)
Unison Classic Blend 2007
Bearing the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers District logo on its label, the wine is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from a 6 hectare vineyard planted in 1993 in this demarcated sub-region of Hawke’s Bay. Opaque in colour with a youthful hue of deep crimson there were fruitcake, spice and plum aromas together with abundant black fruit characters. It is full-bodied with ripe yet gripping tannins and good acidity so there is a strong backbone to the wine. However, the main focus is very much on the fruit of which it delivers plenty in a no-nonsense style. (Available from Underground Wines)
Bookmark
Email this
Hits: 535
Comments (0)
Subscribe to this comment's feedWrite comment
You must be logged in to post a comment. Please register if you do not have an account yet.
