As with so many of the older, established wine regions of the world that are having to compete with the dynamism of newer areas, Loire producers have put a renewed focus on what happens in the vineyard. 
Such an extensive area, with 70,000 hectares of vineyards over 13 departments, has resulted in an abundance of wine styles from the driest to the sweetest (“moelleux”) whites; light to medium bodied reds; roses; and dry to sweet sparkling wines. The Loire produces wines for drinking within months of harvesting to wines that can age gracefully for decades. The expanse of the region, the variety of terroir and microclimates has enabled producers to rely on just a handful of grape varieties. Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc dominate the whites, whilst Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Pinot Noir command the red camp. The most celebrated wines of the region are single varietal produced from one of these noble grapes.
Although the wines of the Loire are still sold primarily in the domestic French market, the wines did go through a fashionable period on the export market in the 1980’s. In my first wine industry role in the London Wine Trade supermarkets, cafes and brasseries ubiquitously stocked Muscadet, whilst the fine dining restaurants would list Sancerre (both red and white). Whereas Sancerre can still hold a very respectable place in the on-trade, Muscadet seems to have disappeared completely from sight.
The sheer size of the region and diversity of its offerings may have made marketing the region as a whole a difficult task. The regional inter-professional organisation of InterLoire responsible for marketing most of the region’s wines has committed itself to innovative activities to promote the freshness of its wines. In one instance the centre of London’s Trafalgar Square was covered in a carpet of flowers laid out to represent the traditional gardens and carpets of the Loire.
Inter-Loire was also instrumental in replacing the term “Jardin de la France” on wine labels with “Vin de Pays du Val de Loire” to more clearly emphasise the origin of the wines. The region is now experiencing a nascent recovery as a result of a mixture of circumstances. As with so many of the older, established wine regions of the world that are having to compete with the dynamism of newer areas, Loire producers have put a renewed focus on what happens in the vineyard. The lowering of cropping levels has played a significant part in this process.
As one of the more northerly lying wine regions of France the area has also benefitted from the effects of climate change. Consistent, warmer vintages have produced riper grapes resulting in reds, in particular, which have more fruit. The days of often quite dilute yet hard, green-edged characters seem to have gone. There is, however, a fine balance between creating riper, more fruit filled wines without masking a sense of place. Whites have developed fuller aromatics but retained the minerality and raciness that is so unique to this region.
Additionally, it could be said that some of the region’s famous whites (e.g. Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé) have benefitted enormously from the popularity of New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc. This Kiwi success story has certainly reflected some of its glory back on to the original, spiritual home of Sauvignon Blanc in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.
Tasted Wines
Jean Max Roger - Sancerre Blanc Cuvee “Les Caillottes” 2007
From the most eastern section of the region Sancerre is the appellation whose wines remain on restaurant wine lists throughout the globe despite the threat of other pretenders to its Sauvignon Blanc throne! Extremely pale in colour the nose shows restrained mineral notes and the classic herbaceous nose of Sancerre. The concentrated citrus palate with linear acidity is extremely fresh, awakening the tongue making it a perfect aperitif wine. It has a long, intense finish. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Jean-Claude Chatelain - Pouilly-Fumé “Les Chailloux” 2007
There may be lots of double “ll” s in the name of this wine but it is only the single “l” in Chatelain that should be pronounced. Pouilly-Fumé lies just across the river from Sancerre – its wine motivated Robert Mondavi of Napa to make his famous Fumé Blanc wine, although the Mondavi version has obvious oak influence whereas the whites of the Loire do not. The wine was very pale with the hall-mark green hue of a cool climate. Classic subdued flintiness with a touch of a cream on the nose there was an extra depth to the aromas not found in the first wine. A slightly weightier palate with creamier texture but ample bracing acidity to balance, leaving the wine fresh and concentrated. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Eric Montintin - Quincy 2007
The mere name of the producer on this bottle brought a smile to my face, reminding me of one of my favourite cartoon characters. Quincy is a far smaller appellation than the two previous ones with a tiny output in comparison and thus not often found on merchant or restaurant lists. Again, Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme. Almost watery pale with green hues in the colour, the nose displayed ripe gooseberries and grapefruit aromas with a mineral edge. Brisk acidity and a lively texture dominated the palate with intense citrus characters on a long length. Despite the general rule that Sauvignon Blancs should be drunk within the first two years of production, I feel that this wine would benefit from being tucked carefully away for another year or so. It is just so intense at this stage with so much power that time to mellow a little would do it wonders. (Available at Caveau)
Domaine Huet - Vouvray “Clos du Bourg” Sec 2007
Located in the Touraine part of the Loire Valley, Vouvray is made solely from Chenin Blanc but can (as seen below) be dry, medium-dry, sweet or even sparkling. The versatility of this white grape is almost endless. This is the first in a line-up of Vouvrays that I had the privilege to taste for this article. What a treat this particular example was! Domaine Huet is probably the most highly regarded producer of the appellation. Bio-dynamic farming started in the late 1980’s and now each of the still wines bears the DEMETER logo. (DEMETER is considered one of the most rigorous methods of bio-dynamic cultivation in the world.) “Clos du Bourg” is a single vineyard and “sec” denotes a dry style. Undeniably my favourite wine of the tasting the wine had subtle aromas of baked apples with underlying minerality. Light to medium bodied in weight with a superb concentration of citrus flavours. If there was a slight hint of residual sugar it was only there to off-set the high acidity that is so particular to Chenin Blanc. This is a really delicious example of a young Vouvray with fantastic depth and texture. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Domaine Huet - Vouvray “Le Mont” Demi-sec 2006
Another single vineyard wine from the same producer to showcase an earlier vintage (considered even better than 2005) and a higher level of sweetness with just 12.5% of alcohol. The wine showed more colour, as expected, from an older white wine but again the classic baked apple aromas of Chenin Blanc with a hint of spice. Racy acidity balanced beautifully with the increased residual sugar to give a medium weight and texture with baked apple flavours and also a touch of marmalade. It actually seems to finish dry. This is certainly a wine for careful cellaring. Waiting a decade or two will show how well Vouvray can develop amazing toasty, honeyed aromas and flavours just as the best Savenniere wines do. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Domaine Huet - Vouvray “Clos du Bourg” Moelleux 2007
My tasting notes for this wine start off very technically with “Wow! This is top of the whozza stuff” (my English teacher would be so proud!). Pale golden in colour the nose has delicate apple Strudel notes – freshly baked puff pastry, raisins and cinnamon are all in evidence, even in a restrained way. The aromas clearly suggest how good the palate is going to be. As a very young wine the palate was actually quite subdued and almost closed. Sweetness and acidity were counterpoised with a lovely weighty texture and a lingering aftertaste finishing with more of an impression of dryness than sweetness. This needs time to evolve and show its true potential as a classic Vouvray. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Domaine Huet - Vouvray Brut 2001
This sparkling has been made following a particularly challenging growing season. It has, however, produced a reasonable example of its style and is ready for drinking now. Pale golden in colour with a gentle nose of bruised apples, the wine had a persistent mousse. Green apple freshness dominated the palate with linear acidity and a good length. Quite straightforward in style it is always interesting to try such wines. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Domaine Vacheron - Sancerre Rouge 2006
The Loire produces far more white wine than red but the reds of Sancerre are no less famous than their white counterparts. Prolific wine expert and writer, Clive Coates MW, states that Domaine Vacheron produces “the best wine in Sancerre”. In this inland appellation of Sancerre, Pinot Noir is the dominant red variety. The colour alone hints at the variety with its deep garnet, rather than crimson colour, and lively but gentle fragrance of cloves, cinnamon and red berries. Over time in the glass it opened up even further. Fine, gently gripping tannins, refreshing acidity and lots of raspberry flavours created a wonderful overall palate. This is how I would imagine a punnet of just ripe mixed red fruits would taste. A really top quality wine. (Available at EWineAsia.com)
Domaine des Roches Neuves – Saumur-Champigny “Terres Chaudes” 2006
Located only 50 kms from Angers Saumur’s wines can be still or sparkling, white, rose or red. However, Saumur-Champigny – the much smaller appellation within Saumur – denotes a still red wine made entirely from Cabernet Franc. This grape variety has benefitted so much from the warmer, more consistent vintages of recent years (as discussed above). Under ripe Cabernet Franc can have a vegetal aroma and a hard edge to the palate with harsh tannins and flavours. Domaine des Roches Neuves is run as another Bio-dynamic property by Thierry Germain. The wine displayed a deep crimson colour, far more common these days in Loire reds. Savoury notes with black cherries dominated the nose. Medium weight in body with juicy acidity and an almost crunchy, black cherry freshness on the palate. Moderate concentration of black cherry follows through on a lingering aftertaste. (Available at EWineAsia.com)
Suzanne Brocklehurst 21/06/09
From the most eastern section of the region Sancerre is the appellation whose wines remain on restaurant wine lists throughout the globe despite the threat of other pretenders to its Sauvignon Blanc throne! Extremely pale in colour the nose shows restrained mineral notes and the classic herbaceous nose of Sancerre. The concentrated citrus palate with linear acidity is extremely fresh, awakening the tongue making it a perfect aperitif wine. It has a long, intense finish. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Jean-Claude Chatelain - Pouilly-Fumé “Les Chailloux” 2007
There may be lots of double “ll” s in the name of this wine but it is only the single “l” in Chatelain that should be pronounced. Pouilly-Fumé lies just across the river from Sancerre – its wine motivated Robert Mondavi of Napa to make his famous Fumé Blanc wine, although the Mondavi version has obvious oak influence whereas the whites of the Loire do not. The wine was very pale with the hall-mark green hue of a cool climate. Classic subdued flintiness with a touch of a cream on the nose there was an extra depth to the aromas not found in the first wine. A slightly weightier palate with creamier texture but ample bracing acidity to balance, leaving the wine fresh and concentrated. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Eric Montintin - Quincy 2007
The mere name of the producer on this bottle brought a smile to my face, reminding me of one of my favourite cartoon characters. Quincy is a far smaller appellation than the two previous ones with a tiny output in comparison and thus not often found on merchant or restaurant lists. Again, Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme. Almost watery pale with green hues in the colour, the nose displayed ripe gooseberries and grapefruit aromas with a mineral edge. Brisk acidity and a lively texture dominated the palate with intense citrus characters on a long length. Despite the general rule that Sauvignon Blancs should be drunk within the first two years of production, I feel that this wine would benefit from being tucked carefully away for another year or so. It is just so intense at this stage with so much power that time to mellow a little would do it wonders. (Available at Caveau)
Domaine Huet - Vouvray “Clos du Bourg” Sec 2007
Located in the Touraine part of the Loire Valley, Vouvray is made solely from Chenin Blanc but can (as seen below) be dry, medium-dry, sweet or even sparkling. The versatility of this white grape is almost endless. This is the first in a line-up of Vouvrays that I had the privilege to taste for this article. What a treat this particular example was! Domaine Huet is probably the most highly regarded producer of the appellation. Bio-dynamic farming started in the late 1980’s and now each of the still wines bears the DEMETER logo. (DEMETER is considered one of the most rigorous methods of bio-dynamic cultivation in the world.) “Clos du Bourg” is a single vineyard and “sec” denotes a dry style. Undeniably my favourite wine of the tasting the wine had subtle aromas of baked apples with underlying minerality. Light to medium bodied in weight with a superb concentration of citrus flavours. If there was a slight hint of residual sugar it was only there to off-set the high acidity that is so particular to Chenin Blanc. This is a really delicious example of a young Vouvray with fantastic depth and texture. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Domaine Huet - Vouvray “Le Mont” Demi-sec 2006
Another single vineyard wine from the same producer to showcase an earlier vintage (considered even better than 2005) and a higher level of sweetness with just 12.5% of alcohol. The wine showed more colour, as expected, from an older white wine but again the classic baked apple aromas of Chenin Blanc with a hint of spice. Racy acidity balanced beautifully with the increased residual sugar to give a medium weight and texture with baked apple flavours and also a touch of marmalade. It actually seems to finish dry. This is certainly a wine for careful cellaring. Waiting a decade or two will show how well Vouvray can develop amazing toasty, honeyed aromas and flavours just as the best Savenniere wines do. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Domaine Huet - Vouvray “Clos du Bourg” Moelleux 2007
My tasting notes for this wine start off very technically with “Wow! This is top of the whozza stuff” (my English teacher would be so proud!). Pale golden in colour the nose has delicate apple Strudel notes – freshly baked puff pastry, raisins and cinnamon are all in evidence, even in a restrained way. The aromas clearly suggest how good the palate is going to be. As a very young wine the palate was actually quite subdued and almost closed. Sweetness and acidity were counterpoised with a lovely weighty texture and a lingering aftertaste finishing with more of an impression of dryness than sweetness. This needs time to evolve and show its true potential as a classic Vouvray. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Domaine Huet - Vouvray Brut 2001
This sparkling has been made following a particularly challenging growing season. It has, however, produced a reasonable example of its style and is ready for drinking now. Pale golden in colour with a gentle nose of bruised apples, the wine had a persistent mousse. Green apple freshness dominated the palate with linear acidity and a good length. Quite straightforward in style it is always interesting to try such wines. (Available at Crystal Wines)
Domaine Vacheron - Sancerre Rouge 2006
The Loire produces far more white wine than red but the reds of Sancerre are no less famous than their white counterparts. Prolific wine expert and writer, Clive Coates MW, states that Domaine Vacheron produces “the best wine in Sancerre”. In this inland appellation of Sancerre, Pinot Noir is the dominant red variety. The colour alone hints at the variety with its deep garnet, rather than crimson colour, and lively but gentle fragrance of cloves, cinnamon and red berries. Over time in the glass it opened up even further. Fine, gently gripping tannins, refreshing acidity and lots of raspberry flavours created a wonderful overall palate. This is how I would imagine a punnet of just ripe mixed red fruits would taste. A really top quality wine. (Available at EWineAsia.com)
Domaine des Roches Neuves – Saumur-Champigny “Terres Chaudes” 2006
Located only 50 kms from Angers Saumur’s wines can be still or sparkling, white, rose or red. However, Saumur-Champigny – the much smaller appellation within Saumur – denotes a still red wine made entirely from Cabernet Franc. This grape variety has benefitted so much from the warmer, more consistent vintages of recent years (as discussed above). Under ripe Cabernet Franc can have a vegetal aroma and a hard edge to the palate with harsh tannins and flavours. Domaine des Roches Neuves is run as another Bio-dynamic property by Thierry Germain. The wine displayed a deep crimson colour, far more common these days in Loire reds. Savoury notes with black cherries dominated the nose. Medium weight in body with juicy acidity and an almost crunchy, black cherry freshness on the palate. Moderate concentration of black cherry follows through on a lingering aftertaste. (Available at EWineAsia.com)
Suzanne Brocklehurst 21/06/09
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