Lanson is now trying to re-focus attention and awareness on the quality of their vintage wines.
Few wine regions around the world can match the sleek marketing expertise of Champagne. Napa valley producers come close, but still cannot match the chutzpah of the Champenois. With this in mind I jumped at the opportunity to attend celebrations marking 250 years of the house of Lanson, one of Champagne’s oldest establishments. The fact that celebrations were to take place just outside Paris, at Château Versailles, merely confirmed that this would be an event not to be missed.
The house of Lanson is probably best-known for its Black Label Non-vintage Brut champagne. However, specialist champagne commentators, such as Tom Stevenson and Michael Edwards hold the vintage wines from Lanson in high regard. With a recent ownership change, to the Boizel Chanoine Champagne (BCC) group in 2006, Lanson is now trying to re-focus attention and awareness on the quality of their vintage wines. The group includes the notable houses of Boizel and Bruno Paillard amongst others.
As the sun set on the last day of September 2010 small groups of elegantly dressed guests arrived at the prestigious venue. Passing the imposing statue of Louis XIV and carefully picking my way across the cobblestones of the vast front courtyard of the Château , I was thankful that I had chosen modest heels rather than the lavish footwear worn by some of the ladies. The concentration of Lauboutins and Manolos was impressive.
The chilly Autumnal wind bit through the glamorous cocktail attire as we waited to enter the ground floor apartments. Each of the 1,500 guests was individually greeted by Lanson’s CEO, Philippe Baijot, and Bruno Paillard, president of BCC, after the Château courtier dressed in 18th Century costume announced each guest’s entry.
Walking out on to the gravelled terrace the view of the gardens and fountains at sunset was spectacular. As fountains danced and Mozart played, guests were served Lanson Extra Age from magnums.
Sourced from Grand and Premier Cru vineyards, the champagne combined freshness and complexity being based on the outstanding vintages of 1999, 2002 and 2003 of which 60% is Pinot Noir and the remainder being Chardonnay.
As the air continued to chill and appetites became piqued by Lanson's mouth-watering bubbles, guests made their way down a red carpet lit with lanterns to the Château’s Orangery. More splendidly coiffed and costumed courtiers entertained guests on the red carpet as they moved slowly into the warmth of the vast Orangery gallery past large sculpted blocks of ice placed at regular intervals along the gallery, each bearing the distinctive red Lanson logo and holding magnums of champagne at a perfect serving temperature.
While guests mingled and enjoyed the champagne and delicious canapés the room temperature and volume of noise rose in unison, occasionally punctuated by various artistic segments. At one stage two transparent “Zorb” balls rolled from one end of the Orangery to the other, each manoevured from inside the sphere by a female dancer; one dressed in red, the other in black. Winged dancers on stilts swept silently between groups of unsuspecting guests whilst 18th Century costumed courtiers played games and sipped upon glasses of Lanson champagne.
Although the bulk of those invited were French there was a strong contingent of people who had travelled long distances to the event, including Japanese and Australians. The overall mood was of gaiety and extravagance. No one could deny the over-riding atmosphere of luxury at these sumptuous celebrations.
As the evening drew to a close guests took up their places around one of the large oval ponds just outside the Orangery. The air was still and crisp creating the perfect setting for a grand finale of impressive fireworks. The midnight blue sky was ablaze with beautiful explosions of light that reflected brilliantly on the pristine pond in front of us.
Standing around outside afterwards chatting about the event it was a surprise to see that the huge blocks of ice bearing the Lanson red logo had barely begun to melt. Despite the biting cold air none of us were cold – we remained in the warm embrace of the house of Lanson.
Suzanne Brocklehurst 25/11/10
