Instead of black/purple grapes like Pinot Noir, or green grapes like Pinot Blanc, the skin colour of Pinot Gris grapes can range from an unattractive grey (gris) colour – hence its namesake – to a dusty pink/brown colour. DNA research has recently confirmed that this is due to a genetic mutation that occurred centuries ago. Curiously, while its skin turned grey, the leaves and the vines remained identical to Pinot Noir. Pinot Gris is the grape of Alsace in France and until recently was called Tokay d'Alsace or Tokay-Pinot Gris. It is also the grape of the Lombardy, Alto Adige and the Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions of Italy though in Italy it is called Pinot Grigio.
Pinot Gris may be a mutant but it must also be considered a chameleon when it comes to the style of wine. Indeed, many wine lovers have described its taste as combining the heady perfume and rich aroma of Gewürztraminer with the acidity one associates with Riesling. Add to that, Alsace Pinot Gris can also come in 3 different styles – dry, lightly sweet to syrupy sweet.
In France’s Alsace the ‘gris’ is a medium bodied, floral wine that is sometimes spicy and smoky - its velvety textured taste is unmistakable. In Germany, Pinot Gris is full bodied, tangy and lightly sweet. In Italy, Pinot Grigio is made in a light, crisp, mineral-citrus style.
In California, the style is reminiscent of the Italian version, and is also called Pinot Grigio, although with peppery overtones. Further north in Oregon, Pinot Gris tends to take on apple flavours.
In New Zealand where Sauvignon Blanc has long reigned as the white variety of choice, Pinot Gris has found a new, quite comfortable home. Kiwi growers who were experimenting with crops were delighted to discover Pinot Gris’s versatility in different wine growing regions. Winemakers have discovered that they can make many distinctive, terroir-expressive wines from this one grape – from honey-rich textured wines that drink a bit like a Chardonnay to limey-crisp wines with acidity reminiscent of a Sauvignon Blanc.
Today, Pinot Gris is New Zealand's fourth most planted white variety after Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling and a handful of New Zealand producers are making excellent Pinot Gris. The typical style is yet to be defined but the following wines, from a different regions in New Zealand and elsewhere – are an indication of the range of tastes you could get from Pinot Gris.
Let’s celebrate the mutant grape! Give them a try !
Pinot Gris Wines in Singapore
Central Otago, South Island - Quartz Reef’s wine hints of pears, apricots and peaches, and is medium-bodied and lightly sweet (in the German style).
Gibbston Highgate DreamMaker is also a rich styled wine with refreshing acidity and length.
Misha’s Vineyard makes an award-winning, wonderfully aromatic and light "gris" that gives ample pear fruit framed by a mineral freshness.
Wairarapa, North Island – 12,000 Miles Pinot Gris is perfumed with white flowers, ripe stone fruit and is very fragrant – finishes dry with a touch of sweetness.
Martinborough, North Island – Escarpment’s wine has stone fruit, red apple and pineapple aromas with a fresh, crisp, medium-full bodied, long finish.
Hawke’s Bay, North Island - Bilancia’s version is full-bodied (in the French Alsace style), rich and creamy, warm, with floral, nutty, apricot flavours- reminiscent of a Muscat or Viognier.
Marlborough, South Island – Huia’s is full of pear, tropical fruit and with a nice creamy texture from oak treatment. Shades of Chardonnay!
Manawa Pinot Gris, a second labed of Seresin, has a very tropical nose with aromas like papaya. It’s slightly sweet on the palate and offers a warm, round finish.
Adelaide Hills, South Australia – Pike & Joyce produce a cool climate ‘gris’ style with spiced pear flavours that is lush, fruity and balanced.
Oregon, United States – Firesteed’s style gives red apple and ripe longan aromas on the nose. Plenty of fruit flavours and soft acids in the mouth– a real quaffing wine.
Gibbston Highgate DreamMaker is also a rich styled wine with refreshing acidity and length.
Misha’s Vineyard makes an award-winning, wonderfully aromatic and light "gris" that gives ample pear fruit framed by a mineral freshness.
Wairarapa, North Island – 12,000 Miles Pinot Gris is perfumed with white flowers, ripe stone fruit and is very fragrant – finishes dry with a touch of sweetness.
Martinborough, North Island – Escarpment’s wine has stone fruit, red apple and pineapple aromas with a fresh, crisp, medium-full bodied, long finish.
Hawke’s Bay, North Island - Bilancia’s version is full-bodied (in the French Alsace style), rich and creamy, warm, with floral, nutty, apricot flavours- reminiscent of a Muscat or Viognier.
Marlborough, South Island – Huia’s is full of pear, tropical fruit and with a nice creamy texture from oak treatment. Shades of Chardonnay!
Manawa Pinot Gris, a second labed of Seresin, has a very tropical nose with aromas like papaya. It’s slightly sweet on the palate and offers a warm, round finish.
Adelaide Hills, South Australia – Pike & Joyce produce a cool climate ‘gris’ style with spiced pear flavours that is lush, fruity and balanced.
Oregon, United States – Firesteed’s style gives red apple and ripe longan aromas on the nose. Plenty of fruit flavours and soft acids in the mouth– a real quaffing wine.
By Ed Soon - a.k.a. Broad Nose
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