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Pairing Practice: Indonesia and the New World

Posted by: yaromov

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Palate, one of Singapore’s premier dining rewards programmes, hosted one of their wine-paring dinners at the Moluccas Room two weeks ago. The “Flavours of Spring” dinner gave me the perfect opportunity to try some fantastic Indonesian cuisine with wine.

 

altMuch has been written about pairing local food with wine – how to handle the spice, what to do with the sugar, and a plethora of other do and don’ts. Now this has been an area of particular interest to me and an area where my personal experiments have had varying degrees of success. As such, I was excited to try someone else’s take on this new, exciting challenge.

 

After an amuse bouche with a delightful, refreshing sparkling cocktail the dinner started. Kerang Rendang Jeruk Bali paired with a glass of Henschke Julius Riesling ’07. Kerang Rendang Jeruk Bali I soon discovered is grilled scallops with rendang and pomelo salad. The wine, I’m surprised to say, was completely dry with very high acid and a lot of spice. Almost all of the wines, in fact, were dry in style.

 

Next we had a lovely shrimp cocktail – Cocktail Salada Udang – paired with Shaw and Smith Sauvignon Blanc ’11. This course opened my eyes to the possibilities of new and exciting food pairings. Presented beautifully, the wine and food married quite nicely to, as one always hopes, create something greater than the whole.

 

The next course brought Hugel Gewurztraminer ’10, the first wine with any sweetness in it, but still mostly dry. A very spicy wine with some weight to throw around matched Daging Kambing Lumpia Goreng Belado or a lamb spring role. I finally found the chilli I’d been looking for in the other dishes (sitting in a little dish on the table for me to add at my pleasure… sigh). Much to my pleasant surprise the extra heat and the spice in the wine kicked everything up a notch. The flavours – so different, so wonderful – truly showed through this course.

 

Returning to seafood, Salmon Garing Colo Colo, as it turns out is not cola cola as I had first heard. Seared Salmon with spicy arugula and fermented soya bean salad tangled with our first red of the night, Nautilus Estate Pinot Noir ’09. Being a primarily red wine drinker and loving pinot, I was happy to see some garnet on the table. The very fatty salmon worked well with the earthy notes in the wine.

 

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I had a chance to ask the chef, Alicia Tivey, who also made the wine pairings, how she determined what to pair with what. She prefer’s Australia and New Zealand to the old world, and she wanted something that could handle the spice, hence the often dry spicy whites. It’s definitely something to think about.

 

In addition to the dinner, Palate sponsored a lucky draw for one lucky guest. Chef Alicia Tivey will be making dinner for 10 at one Palate member’s home.

 

Finally, for desert, Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscto d’ Asti ’10 and Moluccas Luwak Istimewa or a homemade almond macaroon – a delightfully sweet and refreshing end to a delicious night of something new!

 

For More information about Palate, visit them at Palate.sg.

Edit 9-5-12: Palate is a dining rewards programme, not a dining club.

Photo Credit: Palate

 


The Avenger Wine Challenge!

Posted by: singaporenose

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Singapore Nose

(Singapore) Crystal Wines hosted its annual wine & movie night treating members of the Singapore wine trade to a special screening of The Avengers.

 

The wine portion of the evening came prior to watching the Avenger super-humans save the world from the mendacious Loki.   Crystal did their best to avenge quality winemaking for an hour or so by pouring  their newest wine labels. 

 

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As I tried all the wines I couldn't help but look for character comparisions between the wines and the Marvel Comic Book characters in the movie;  call it "wine trade fun" or a simple case of  "obesessive wine journalist disorder" - whatever -  this silly activity seemed like the right thing to do at the time...

 

Here's what my imagination and palate conjured & reckoned:

 

The "Black Widow" of wine in the line-up was played by Henri Giraud Esprit Brut NV.  Why?  As a beautiful, clandestine grower champagne (clandestine only because not enough people know about it...) the HG Esprit is both seductive and deadly good.    And like the heartbreaking Black Widow (well, she was also lethal in the comics), I was heartbroken when my glass was empty!

 

The "Captain America" of wine was Flametree Embers SBS (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon). This earnest yet intrepid SBS from Margaret River is packed with explosive fruit flavours and zesty energy...a lot like the true-blue Cap'n America and everybit as likeable and easy-going.  I reckoned it could deflect any bad mood with the first sip.

 

The "Iron Man" of wine was the Usseglio Côtes du Rhône.  This cleverly intricate and fiery grenache based wine showed Iron Man's quixotic charm but was also backed up with a solid, dependable tannin structure and utterly charming southern Rhône aromatics.  Like Iron Man, I couldn't help but have a soft spot for this wine... 

 

The "Hawkeye" of wine was the Katnook Founder's Block Cab Sav; filled with surprising precision and balance this Coonawarra classic red shared the Hawkeye's duplicitous nature, e.g. slowly revealing unexpected, complex aromas and flavour character over time, and in the end proving to be a stalwart, dependable and enduring wine.

 

The "Thor" of wine in the Crystal offer was Misha's Vineyard "Impromptu" Pinot Noir.  OK... this might seem a bit out on the edge, I know, that such a powerful and manly comic character would remind me of a medium-bodied, young pinot noir named after a woman - and it may well be a stretch - but hear me out! 

 

Here it goes:  With electrifying acidity combined and juicy intense fruit concentration the surprising livliness of Misha's Impromptu reminded me of Thor's electrifying power (acidity), his impetuous nature (bursting with fruit forwardness). and his powerful grip (lingering finish).   Like Thor this wine packs a vibrant punch - and it was impromptu - like Thor.  Not bad, eh?

 

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The Incredible Hulk in wine fortunately wasn't at the event to wreck everyone's palate. 

 

Of course, one can definitely find big, menacing and green red wines that scarily ressemble the Hulk. 

 

Thankfully, Crystal didn't show any wines like that - you know wines that had been pelted with Gamma rays, or more likely picked too early when the phenolics in the grapes were still green and mean. 

 

And the movie?  It's great!  The wine prior to the film might have influenced my judgement about that but all in it's a fun, big screen movie experience packed with action, adventure and the occasional funny throw away line. 

 

Plus, whether by accident or design I had awesome seats to watch Hulk pound Loki and others...great stuff!

 

Go see the movie and I dare you to try matching the characters with your favourite wines...call it the Avenger Challenge.  We'll be happy to see your findings posted here on TLN or on our TLN's facebook page.

 

COME ON! 

Take the Avenger Challenge!

 


Contributed by Sarah Mayo, TLN Editor

 

 

 


And Now I Lay Me Down To Rest

Posted by: yaromov

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Unfortunately for Singapore, properly storing wine can be difficult in this climate. I’m still waiting for the government to put Singapore in a big bubble and air con the whole thing. Still, for the best of wines you must store them, usually for a good long while. Winemaker Christophe Perrot-Minot of Domaine Perrot-Minot suggests this is the only course of action with his finest wines – any of his wines, really.

 

Domaine Perrot-Minot controls roughly 13 hectares of wine and makes roughly 65 thousand bottles a year. Notably they sell the vast majority of their wines in over 40 different countries. They’ve been in Singapore for eleven years now. Needless to say, they control a recognized brand of premium Burgundies. Last week I tasted four of his wines, two villages, one premier cru, and one grand cru.

 

To start us off, Morey St Denis ‘en la Rue de Vergy’ ’09 – this wine blends high acidity with excellent intensity soft tannins and soft, fresh cherries. Mr. Perrot-Minot walked us through the tasting. ’09 was a famous vintage with a long hot summer that should produce some incredible wines, notable for their high acidity.

 

The second wine of the night, simply Chambolle-Musigny ’09 started with similar intensity but really opened on the palate. A higher concentration of fruit and more tannin make for a wine that should age very nicely. And a wine that really needs to age – the tannin is almost too much to handle young.

 

Our third wine, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Combe d’ Orveau ’09, stepped up to a new level. The difference in quality between the first two and the third and fourth was distinct. This wine, still very closed, displayed clean mild tannins, intense concentration with distinct balance and a lingering finish.

 

Last of all, the grand daddy - Mazis-Chambertin Grand Crú ’09. Again, a beautiful wine with very high acidity leading to a impeccably balanced, intense, finish. Put this one away, and don’t touch it for ten years.

 

Our host for the night, Verre, served some delightful canapés to go with our wine – cheese tarts and salmon crackers. And then a beautiful pastry tower for desert.

 

All in all, a fantastic tasting, but, as the winemaker said, I wouldn’t touch these wines for a few years. It would be a waste of money. These wine’s won’t display their best characteristics for a long time yet, and the tannins need some time to mellow out – while fine and smooth on the tongue they’re still young, sharp and bitter – let them age.

 


In Praise of Makan, Minum & Main

Posted by: Hwee Peng

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hweepeng-small(Singapore)  From a general assessment standpoint, quality may make the difference between a fine wine and a mediocre one. However, a brilliant wine is one that has a remarkable personality or narrative behind it. One such wine, in my opinion, is Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay.

 

This is a fine white wine that is named after the first alphabet of three individuals, who had a hand in crafting this pristine cool-climate style Chardonnay – brothers Michael and Matthew Hill Smith, as well as cousin Mark Shaw.

 

I have, however, a playful and fun interpretation of ‘M3’ that is more relevant to local culture – ‘Makan, Minum, and Main’. Although I am not suggesting that the wine promotes 吃, 喝, 玩, 乐 (i.e. eat, drink and be merry), it is just a much pleasurable way for consumers to keep this wine in mind. Despite labeling the wine after three makers, the market is probably more familiar with Michael Hill Smith, Master of Wine (MW).

 

You see, Michael is a globetrotter and also a notable ambassador for Shaw & Smith (S+S), as well as Australian wines. To the locals, however, Michael is a Singaporean, and an Asian at heart.

 

Smith, graduated as the first Australian MW in 1988, has been visiting Singapore as part of the Singapore Airlines (SIA) Wine Consultant team since the late-1980s. Where to eat, have fun and enjoyed oneself in the sunny island? Michael would know them by his finger tips. His annual get-together, with trade and media professionals in Singapore, to share the new releases of S+S wines, is always fully attended. In fact, it was chock-a-block in last year’s session that was generously hosted by Monopole, the young and passionate wine merchant that represents his S+S’ wines in Singapore.

 

Based on the increasing popularity of both the Aussie MW and his wines, it is not far-fetch to predict that future S+S launch event may have to organize over two days, instead of presenting it over a lunch. Such is how well-regarded Michael is in this part of the world.

 

Unknowingly, such feat (for both Michael and his wines) does not come easily. First released in 2000, M3 Vineyard Chardonnay has since been hailed as one of Australia’s finest Chardonnay. Through subsequent vintages, accolades for this wine gain momentum; it has garnered favoured review and praises from celebrated wine reviewers such as Robert Parker, Jancis Robinson, Stephen Tanzer, James Halliday and Jeremy Oliver, as well as renowned wine publications such as Decanter, and Wine Spectator.

 

Those who are familiar with that roll call of wine personalities will know that not many fine wines get unequivocal commend from those ‘A-listers’. Each critic, innately, has their favoured wine style as well as quirkiness in assessing vino in the wine world; some also appeared not to see eye to eye in their opinion of certain wines. Therefore, it is an achievement for M3 Vineyard Chardonnay to have such across-the-board endorsement. I am, however, not surprised by such unanimous approval of the wine.

 

Personally, besides the obvious quality and exceptional finesse that impress many connoisseurs, Michael Hill Smith MW is, in my view, the basis for the wide support of M3 Vineyard Chardonnay. An intellectual with a keen sense of passion for the industry, supported by an all-rounded macro-view of the wine world dynamics, Michael’s globetrotting schedule also helps to shape his outlook and linkages with international market. With a unique Aussie sense of humour, it adds interest to his comments and sharing with people he interacts with. More importantly, Michael’s generousity and sensitivity distinguish him. Many, like me, were motivated by his magnanimous personality.

 

Since young, my parents have always instilled a traditional Asian way of behaviour, such as ‘ponder before speaking’; but I have come to realize that in certain environment, speed in expression is important. In the inaugural Australia Landmark Tutorial (in 2009), participants were expressing their views in quick succession, if Michael did not put a pause to it, and quickly single out the Asian participants for their opinions, we may not have the opportunity to share our observations. With his ability to empathize with participants from different culture, he was a hit with many of the Landmark Tutorial participants, especially the Asians. When I was enjoying the M3 Vineyard Chardonnay and subtly singing praises of its quality, Michael took notice.

 

Several visits to Singapore and much discussions later, he initiated a purposeful back-vintages Masterclass of M3 Vineyards Chardonnay in Singapore, allowing the market to learn, not only how M3 Vineyard Chardonnay can evolve, we also had an enlightening lesson on almost all things Chardonnay! Such was Michael’s generousity in sharing his knowhow (as well as his fine wines), and his instinct to feel for wine professionals and prod them along their learning journey.

 

Professionally, Michael Hill Smith MW is a kind soul who regularly offers only positive comments for fellow peers, and constantly encouraging. Although he is already an established international wine celebrity, I am certain when Michael do get to see this article, he will probably laugh it off; I like that a true professional take their profession seriously, but not oneself. The next time you pick up a bottle of M3 Vineyard Chardonnay, be sure to enjoy not only its fine nuances, but also the unique personality behind the bottle of wine. This will ensure that you get a full enjoyment of S+S wines, whether in a makan, minum or main setting.

 

THE WINE

Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay 2010

Crafted from fruits at the Adelaide Hill vineyards that were planted since 1995, M3 Vineyards Chardonnay continues to charm its fans with its cool-climate nuances, refreshing notes with a pleasing note of oak. If you could personify this wine, it is probably an Asian (and some will proffer that it is likely an intellectual one). Subtlety, with underlying richness and a quiet charm seem to be the strength and attractiveness of this wine. Enjoy this wine as you would imbibe a Montrachet, with a big bowl glass, be conscious of the serving temperature, and appreciate the nuances; much like sipping a pu-erh tea.

 

This wine is suitable for: French Fine Dining Fine Cantonese Cuisine Fine Teochew Cuisine Wine Bar’s Fine Wine list Business Luncheon or Dinner Price: SGD59 per bottle Availability: Monopole (www.monopole.com.sg)

 

Lim Hwee Peng is a TLN "Nose" and wine consultant, writer and educator.  This article was posted originally on the Lim Hwee Peng's blog Drinkgoodwines.com.  To read the original version of this story visit:  http://drinkgoodwines.com/


Watching the Master Chefs

Posted by: yaromov

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I know I’m supposed to talk about wine, but you’ll have to forgive me if I talk about food for a little bit. I love food – in all its beautiful wonderful aspects, the consumption, the production, everything. At World Gourmet Summit’s Citibank Gastronomic Jam Session I had a chance to watch two master chefs do what they do best – make food.

 

Michel Sarran from the two Michelin Star restaurant of his namesake, and Anatoly Komm from Varvary staged for a live audience. Now I often think, in foolish hubris, that I could recreate a dish from one of Singapore’s top restaurants. How very foolish I am. Would you use a professional paint sprayer in your culinary experiments?

 

Anatoly Komm used just such a sprayer to create beetroot paper for a traditional Russian dish, dressed herring or herring under a fur coat. His take? Wrap it all up with beetroot paper (created using said professional paint sprayer) to create a herring roll. His second dish, Russian Salad, was a little more traditional – still, I doubt I could make it at home.

 

Michel Sarran only created one dish, one, even, I could make at home… when I become a billionaire. Truffle breakfast starts with whole black truffles. Add those truffles to yogurt and port marmalade (an entire bottle of port reduced into a few tablespoons) and one of the strangest coffees I’ve ever seen and you have it. As for the coffee… well it’s chicken coffee – he used a base of chicken bouillon, espresso, and a few other treats to create something that must be unique. It looks delicious, but then who doesn’t love truffles?

 

The entire experience was fascinating to watch. And it made it clear just how far I have to go before I’ll be creating such culinary delights in my own kitchen. Perhaps my next culinary adventure will include a trip to the hardware store.

 


Some new surprises from Marlborough

Posted by: yaromov

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Singapore Nose

Marlborough. Pinot Noir. Done and done, right? Well yes, and no. Last night I tasted several wines from the premium winery, Highfield Estate. Derek Johnson, the sales and marketing manager for the estate, was in town to show off some of their best wines with the guys from Equatorial Wines. As all good wine tasting start with a bottle of bubbles, he poured their Elstree Cuvee Brut ‘07 to get the night started.

 

Now the story goes that two businessmen working in Asia would drink Champagne together whenever they met up. Some claim they would enjoy a glass each. Others, several bottles. Either way, they somehow convinced the wine maker at Drappier to give them the recipe, without the requisite dosage. Highfield has been using this recipe ever since, or so the story goes. Fictionalized or not, the Elstree Cuvee Brut ’07 is rich and creamy - velvety even - every drop delicious. 

 

Having wet our appetite, Derek launched into the whites and reds. We started with their second label, The Highfield Paua Sauvignon ’11. Now, usually people pass a quick glance over their wine before tipping it back. I don’t blame them. While wine is beautiful, I would rather pour it down my throat than drink it. I’ll make an exception for all of Highfield’s white wines- clear, nearly water, with flecks of gold and lemon swimming in the glass.

 

Highfield handpicks and selects all their grapes. Then they make their wines with free run juice, only. Free run juice means that all the juice extracted comes from the weight of the grapes on themselves. The grapes aren’t pressed, crushed, mangled, or otherwise bullied into giving up their liquid gold. This makes for a pristine, clean delicate palate on the eye. In the mouth, lots of acid balance out a dry lemony orange tasting delight.

 

After trying the Paua we moved onto their first label, simply Highfield’s. The Sauvignon Blanc ’10 expresses that same shimmering oasis for the eyes. The wine itself poises itself better, as you would expect from the older brother (sister?). It displays a little less body, less acid, and finer floral and earthy notes. Over all it’s a better-integrated, smoother wine.

 

Next on our list, the Highfield Pinot Noir ’08, surprised me a lot. The nose is all oak and forest floor and burnt wood, almost no fruit. And then you drink it. The fruit comes out in this subtle expressive manner with really nice well-integrated tannins and a long luxurious slow finish. Don’t get me wrong, the oaky smoky flavours are there, but nothing like what you would expect after nosing it. 

 

Last but not least, we tried the Highfield Riesling ’10. This wine is unique. I’ve never quite had anything like it. Coming in at a little over 30g/l you would expect this to be a really sweet wine, and it is. My first sip was a sugar bomb, one a little bit bigger than I could handle. And then you move it around your mouth. This mouthwatering acidity comes out and somehow it balances out by the time it hits the back of your throat. Fun!

 

Overall, I enjoyed these wines a great deal. They all display a poise, a balance, and an integration you can rarely expect from a full range of wine. The Paua, their second label, even stands nicely alongside some fantastic wines. Did I mention the price? Going into this tasting blind, I was expecting some top dollar wines, especially after trying them. Now they’re not cheap by any means, but with all the wines coming it at under $60, this young wino knows a deal when he sees it. 

 

 

 


My Private Indonesian Wine Challenge

Posted by: singaporenose

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Singapore Nose

I have to be the only wine lover on the planet to take a week-long holiday vacation with my family in Indonesia (Lombok) and forget to bring a bottle of wine …or three… with me. Didn’t even think to look up the duty free limits – because had I done that I would have surely stuffed my two adult family member’s bags with bottles too!

 

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What’s done is done. We arrived at the super-nice Qunci Villas in Lombok with no wine to choose from other than what’s on the resort wine list – a list with a supermarket Chilean white starting at US$40 per bottle and moving up to bubbles (Delamotte NV) costing more than the room and food for a day (north of $250 per bottle).

 

Hello Happy Hour cocktails!

 

But the habit of wine is too well ingrained in me. I just prefer a glass of something cool and white in this setting. So ‘by-the-glass’ @ US$10 I proceed.

 

At first I was disappointed to see the wine list but quickly had an epiphany.  A developing country beach resort is exactly where mass-produced wine serves a very good purpose: it’s predictable. The wine list at Qunci is just that - an assortment of supermarket-level Aussie wines – Lindemanns and Rosemount mostly. 

 

But there is also a lone Penfold’s Rawson’s Retreat Semillon-Chardonnay on the list too – a very safe choice on the drinkability scale and for a massively large production wine, one that isn’t an oaky and flabby fruit bomb.   It's very well made and above all balanced. 

 

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Most importantly though, it's not a pondering, fussy wine that will take my mind off the beautiful sunset I’m enjoying every afternoon from a lounge chair.

 

My sunset Penfold's is as uncomplicated as the afternoon that preceded it…plus it’s fresh. This wine also serves as a very pleasant companion to the fresh spring rolls with spicy sauce I'm having with it.

 

It's refreshing to know that every glass of wine doesn’t’ have to be an enlightened discovery of unique quality, terroir and winemaker genius.  Predictable and straightforward in style are plenty good, particularly when paired with a beautiful sunset.

 

It's nearly 5pm again - time to embrace my own private Indonesian wine challenge again...(:


Elephants and Wine

Posted by: tonel62

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(Singapore)  Tired of spending the day at the swimming pool or the beach? Need a change of scenery preferably with interesting refreshments? How about an elephant ride? If you are in Hua Hin, Thailand and suffering from the sea and sand then rent a bike from Chris Byrd ( Hua Hin Bike Tours) or use the shuttle from Hua Hin to the Hua Hin Hills Vineyard just 45kms from the coast. We rented the bikes and took advantage of the excellent trip offered by Chris.

 

The Hua Hin Hills Vineyard started in 2003 on the site of a former elephant corral. Vines planted include Colombard, Syrah, Chenin blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo as well as table grapes. Unfortunately we were unable to meet the German lady winemaker so most of the information reported is from observations and the company website. The vineyard is situated in a two-season zone at an altitude of 140-210 m but has only one harvest, normally in February- March. The soil is a mixture of sandy loam and slate and the vines are irrigated. Tastings are available and there is a restaurant known for its good food.

 

There are apparently several reasons for the success of tropical winemaking, not just in Thailand but also in India, Brazil etc. These include the use of a new rootstock suitable for the hot climate, the cropping/pruning techniques practised, crop protection agents to combat the problems of the rainy season and the careful choice of varietals. The result in Hua HIn Hills is a range of wines which is gaining an international reputation. I tried the Colombard which I found ideal for the hot climate, a very pleasant nose, some acidity and lots of fruit, producing an easy drinking , crisp, refreshing wine. The syrah was less impressive for me but it was a very hot day and after a long bike ride probably not the best wine to drink. The other wines will have to wait for another occasion.

 

The wines are marketing under the “ Monsoon Valley” brand and offer a classic, a premium and a flagship range; they have won prizes at a number of international wine events in recent years.

 

It is possible to tour the vineyard by jeep, mountain bike and for those who want something unique, by elephant! So if you find yourself in Hua Hin and need a distraction from the sun and the sea, head for the western hills and go to the vineyard; it really is well worth the effort.


Hong Kong Scores 1 in the "Wine Hub" game.

Posted by: singaporenose

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Singapore NoseHong Kong scored another point in the ongoing Asia "wine hub" game last week. 

 

The game I'm referring to is the constant rivalry between Singapore and Hong Kong for "wine hub" status...it's an extension of the long-running rivalry in practically all pursuits.   In the wine game though, Hong Kong definitely has the progressive edge, especially given the government attitudes towards duty and tax on alcohol. 

 

The latest hot spot news is the opening of the slick, high-tech wine bar Amo Eno that sent a ripple of excitement through an already vibrant Hong Kong wine scene - So big was this news that it rated a special launch feature aired on CNBC  - or had a very organized PR machine see to it that it made the news!  Either way, it made it.

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I was headed to Hong Kong for TLN when I heard the trailer on CNBC...I noted the name and bookmarked it as a place to go see.  The next day in Hong Kong I popped into a Watsons to buy a bottle and picked up a magazine that had an advertisement for Amo-Eno.

 

Within 24 hours I had had two marketing pitches resonate with me.  That's as good as fate grabbing me by the ear lobe and dragging me there...so I let fate lead the way and set up a drink with wine friends at Amo Eno.

 

Amo Eno (located on the 3rd floor of the IFC Mall ) is clearly a design concept wine bar centered around an interactive touch-screen "bar counter" showing the store's wine selection.   I'm not so sure about the location as it seems like a transit spot to me, but the bar was full when I arrived and the business was brisk.  It's not the easiest shop to find though - so if you're planning a rendez-vous factor that into the travel there.

 

Tasting samples are availabe from a wall of self-serve enomatic machines and a wonderfully eclectic selection of wines is available by the bottle for on -premise or take-home purchase. 

 

Where Amo Eno scores big is that the wine prices aren't bloated by an egregious GST tax and duty structure like Singapore.   Plus the selection offered interesting older vintage wines most at reasonable prices. 

 

Amo Eno simply means "love wine" and it's clear the founders are nuts for both wine and design.  The bar was founded by well-known US sommelier Andrew Bradbury and his wife Brooke.  He describes himself as a wine geek and tech junkie - originally marrying his two interests to launch the world’s first electronic wine list in 2001 in collaboration with Microsoft at Aureole in Las Vegas.

 

amoeno_3Andrew has since gone on to be involved in other techno-posh wine bar concepts at 55 Degrees at Mandalay Bay and Clo at Time Warner Center in New York City. 

 

Amo Eno is the culmination of these experiences and is put together with tremendous attention to design detail influenced by Brooke.

 

Since the Airport Express runs right through the IFC it's handy enough to drop in for a glass of something either coming in or going out.

 

But if you're leaving Hong Kong and you pick up a bottle to bring back to Singapore - remember you'll have to pay the DUTY...Ouch!

 

Oh!  How silly of me...how could we all forget about the duty and tax?


Fresh Whites for a Hot Night...

Posted by: singaporenose

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Singapore NoseWhen I moved to Singapore and lamented the lack of "seasonal change" a long time expat here told me to quit griping.  "Singapore has four seasons" she said.  "There's Hot, Hotter, Wet and Wetter. 

 

Right I thought...so much for ever feeling "fresh" here on the equator.

 

I wasted no time searching for "freshness" coping mechanisms and immediately turned to super-chilled white wine.  Maybe I could trick my body into thinking  fresh thoughts?

 

It actually works.

 

This week TLN suggests some very fresh wines that are also a chance to "taste outside of the box."  Forget the cheap Cold Storage and NTUC discount wine and dare to taste some lesser-known whites from the Old World that are both top quality and reasonably priced. 

 

Why?

 

The main ingredient in most of these wines is refreshing acidity.  Since we're in the "hot" season and heading towards hotter - these are nice wines to count on slaking one's thirst when Singapore goes to the dreaded "hotter"...

 

Let's start with the Gruner Veltliner - in part because it's the Austrian Wine Festival and there are abundant opportunities to taste this wine all over town.  This indigenous grape is for Austria what Sauvignon Blanc is for New Zealand - an ambassador of typicity in wine style and grape expression.  That's a fussy way of saying Austria sets the standard for Gruner Veltliner style - even though other countries are starting to produce Gruner wines.   Everytime I pour this wine people like it...I like it too. 

 

The recommended Huber Gruner Veltliner Ober Steigen 2009 is straight out of central casting for a Gruner:  it has wonderfully lifted acid freshness, great citrus and mineral flavours, and the tell-tale hint of white pepper running throughout that is a signature Gruner trait.  Best of all it pairs well with just about everything - I often call it the chameleon grape.

 

If that doesn't appeal, the rest are Italian whites - an almost unknown collection of wines (outside of Pinot Grigio) for most wine drinkers.

 

First consider two Arneis wines from the Piedmont in Northwestern Italy.  TLN recommends two wines at different price points.  As an entry to the grape consider the Marchesi Incesa Della Rocchetta Roero Arneis that's a really light and easy wine with attractive floral character.  It has a bit of "palate" weight, meaning it doesn't disappear quickly.  It's a crowd pleaser really!

 

A bit fancier version is the Roero Arneis made by Bruno Giacosa.  This is a nervier wine with more acid tension over the same sort of ripe, full fruit.  It's delicious and if your wallet permits it's a great entry point too!

 

Next are two more northern Italian wines - both made from the Garganega grape (predominantly) - pronounced gar-gan-nay-guh.  Again, ther first is a simple expression of this grape and well know by it's "style" - Soave.  It's the Fontana Soave that has nice lemony nots and some more spicy, savory elements. 

 

The next is from a very famous vineyard - made by a famous Italian winemaker : Guiseppe Quintarelli.  He wasn't known for his garganega, but still he was very skilled for his Amarone wines.  As it happens, he recently died in January 2012.  There's a great article that talks about how humble of a man he was - but more importantly it talks about a standard of wines Guiseppe spent his life making.  No doubt - this is a pricy wine, but it's a wine that serves as a benchmark for a style and place.  The Quintarelli Bianco Secco is a refreshing treat on a hot Singapore night.

 

Last is a Fiano D'Avelino - a white that comes from the south but from 'altitude' which preserves that desireable freshness.  Also from a well-known winery, the Feudi San Gregorio Fiano is a premium Italian white.  Coming from the south this is amore honey-fused wine aromatically with a crisp stone fruit and lemon characterin the mouth.  It's both interesting and delicious.

 

Go outside of the usual tasting zone this week and try these wines.  They are all great quality and an interesting change from the "usual drop."


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