It has certainly been exciting to witness the innovative, changing styles of Tuscany’s wines. Quality has undoubtedly improved, particularly amongst the more traditional producers with investment in vineyard practices. 
Although many may be inspired, only a few winemakers can truly claim status as catalysts for breaking Tuscany away from arch traditionalism. These firebrand vineyard owners not only revitalised the Tuscan region itself, but arguably transformed the entire Italian winemaking industry. But how?
Located in Central West Italy, Tuscany is most famously associated with the wines of Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Brunello di Montalcino (the latter being in the process of healing the deep wounds left by the recent “Brunello-gate” blending scandal). The growing reputation of the wines of Bolgheri in the most western coastal area and the emergence of Morellino de Scansano further south have added to the diversity of the regions offerings. Well hidden but not lost, one cannot forget to mention Tuscany’s Vin Santo – the best of which result in myriad complex aromas and flavours that can only be achieved with patience and careful ageing.
Thankfully emancipated from its corset-like straw covered bottle, Chianti’s wines have evolved in style with little reference to the pale garnet, dilute, often highly acidic styles of yesteryear. Although Chianti can still be underwhelming on the palate, Chianti Classico (one of the seven sub-regions of Chianti) can be exciting. Similarly, Chianti Classico Riserva, with its additional ageing requirements, is usually worth the extra expense. The Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, which represents more than 600 producers and 95% of production, has been eager to reassert itself in an increasingly competitive global wine market.
The Consorzio presented a Chianti Classico Symposium here in Singapore in April where 12 Chianti Classicos and Chianti Classico Riservas from the outstanding vintage of 2004 were tasted. Consorzio president Marco Pallanti (longstanding winemaker at highly respected Castello di Ama) spoke of the renewed commitment to quality and consistency amongst producers. This was certainly evident in the majority of the wines which showcased the cherry and savoury nose, refreshing acidity and chalky tannins found in classic Sangiovese based wines. Pride in this native variety has grown following research into its numerous clones and more precise matching of clone and vineyard site.
This return to respect for Sangiovese through fine tuning production methods over recent years is a far cry from the bold steps of experimentation taken a few decades ago. Innovation and rule-breaking in Tuscany’s Bolgheri region, led by Piero Antinori, resulted in impressive modern style wines in the late 1960s. Although these ‘progressive’ winemakers with a focus on quality wines were compelled to market their wines as ordinary Vino da Tavola (VdT) category (since their production did not conform to Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, DOCG) they embraced the challenge and excluded native grape variety, Sangiovese, from the blend. These wines became known as “Super Tuscans”. High prices, small quantities and critical acclaim put the wines out of reach of most wine consumers. This market move proved to be, interestingly, the complete antithesis to the majority of Italian wines in the global market.
Inspired winemakers elsewhere in Italy also sought to break away from the confines laid out by strict regulations, particularly concerning the use of grape varieties. By 1992 a new category was established called Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) into which wines these “Super Tuscans” fell. Although producers of the original “Super Tuscans”, including Sassicaia, Tignanello and Solaia, have maintained the highest standards of winemaking the label IGT certainly does not mean that all IGT wines are of that stature. Just like the categories of DOC and DOCG, and as with Appellation d’Origine Controllée (AOC) in France, these quality standards merely denote that particular regulations have been upheld, yet are not a strict guarantee of quality.
It has certainly been exciting to witness the innovative, changing styles of Tuscany’s wines. Quality has undoubtedly improved, particularly amongst the more traditional producers with investment in vineyard practices, including better planting material. A proportion of the more modern styles, which often display too much oak and suffer from over-extracted fruit, risk the possibility of becoming synonymous with a vast lake of similar styles. As competition in the global market intensifies, it will be the wines showing definition of their provenance that will undoubtedly rise above the rest.
Tasted Wines
Barone Ricasoli, Torricella Chardonnay 2007 IGT
Tuscany has always been associated with red wines so it was interesting to taste a white produced by the historic household of Ricasoli. Pale golden in colour the smokey, nutty aromas suggested heavy oak influence. The label stated the wine had been fermented in stainless steel and aged in barriques. For consumers who prefer a weighty style of white wine this may well suit your taste. Quite a resinous palate with abundant oak flavours overwhelmed the fruit suggesting that the wine is quite disjointed at this stage of its development. Only time will tell whether or not the essential components of fruit, acid and oak will achieve some balance. (Available at Taste of Tradition)
Le Fonti “Fontissimo” 2004 IGT
Le Fonti is a small wine producer based in Chianti Classico. To be a DOCG the wine must have a minimum of 80% Sangiovese in the blend. As this wine is 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon it automatically belongs to the IGT category. The wine is dense crimson in colour and displays freshly crushed red fruit with a hint of cinnamon spice on the nose. The wine has spent 18 months in new French barriques resulting in a low level of non-aggressive tannins. Medium bodied with generous acidity, there is reasonable concentration of cherry fruit giving the overall impression of a refreshing wine. (Available at Jovis Wines)
Barone Ricasoli “Brolio” Chianti Classico 2006
The name Ricasoli is synonymous with Chianti Classico although the influence of this historic family reaches beyond the enclaves of Tuscany. Baron Bettino Ricasoli became Prime Minister of a recently united Italy in 1860. Amongst his accomplishments the Baron was responsible for instigating the “improvement” of the Chianti blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo by the inclusion of as much as 30% of white Trebbiano and Malvasia. Unfortunately inferior quality Chianti wines resulted as too much of these lesser varieties was included. Today’s regulations require a minimum of 80% Sangiovese and the Brolio tasted was certainly a superior example of a Chianti Classico blend. Dense crimson in colour, the nose showed lifted, quite fragrant classic cherry notes of Sangiovese with underlying savoury characters – very attractive. Dusty tannins, fresh acidity and dense black cherry flavours intermingled on a perfectly balanced palate delivering everything that is expected from a typical Chianti Classico. (Available at Taste of Tradition)
Mazzei, Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2005
The Mazzei family have owned the Castello di Fonterutoli since 1435. The family has moved with the times investing in properties elsewhere in Tuscany, particularly in Maremma, and also in Sicily. This Chianti Classico errs on the more modern side of wine styles as it is concentrated and multi-faceted. High density crimson in colour, the nose was quite closed although there were certainly hints of an underlying concentration of black cherries and some spicy oak. Fragrant spices and attractive fruit complexity on a 2003 tasted on an earlier occasion indicated how well this particular 2005 vintage is likely to develop. On the palate very chalky tannins and high acidity dominated but there was also excellent fruit concentration. This wine shows the potential necessary to evolve, even in the short term, into a delicious wine as the acidity softens and the tannins provide a foil for the concentrated fruit. (Available at Taste of Tradition)
Le Fonti Chianti Classico 2005
Tuscany did not experience the heaven sent 2005 vintage of some other regions. Excessive rainfall posed real challenges for producers and strict selection in the vineyard to protect the overall quality of the wines was necessary. Medium density crimson and showing slightly more evolution than the other 2005 tasted, a less concentrated wine was expected. Charry oak and licorice aromas were evident on the nose. Licorice and black fruit could be found on the palate with reasonable tannins and good acid. This is a wine that demands food to accompany it – no self-respecting Tuscan would have it any other way! (Available at Jovis Wines)
Il Borghetto Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Achieving Riserva status requires 80% Sangiovese (identical to Chianti Classico) but a minimum of 12.5% alcohol and 24 months oak ageing. This particular wine exceeds these criteria – not only is it 100% Sangiovese but it is 14.5% alcohol. The bottle is incredibly heavy suggesting a superior wine that should be taken seriously. Il Borghetto is a small estate found at the northern tip of the Chianti Classico region. The vines are quite young having only been planted a decade ago. The colour is medium plus density garnet and the nose shows some development although it is the oak that dominates at this stage. It is extremely full-bodied in style with chalky tannins, generous acidity and concentrated fruit making it a powerful wine. This is a wine for those who prefer big, bold, ambitious styles. (Available at Jovis Wines)
La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2003
“Brunello” means “little brown one” in Italian and refers to the small, hardy clone of Sangiovese that was isolated from other clones in 1870 by Ferrucio Biondi-Santi. Brunellos (and Barolos from Piedmont) command some of the highest prices amongst Italian wines. These wines have the ability to age and improve over many years but Brunellos, in particular, can be extremely appealing in their youth. Just beginning to show some maturity on the rim with a deep garnet centre, this wine proved to be the highlight of the tasting. The nose was lifted and fragrant with spices and leather complexity. As expected, it was the most concentrated wine of the group with intense red and black cherry fruit. The abundant fruit element was balanced by refreshing acidity and the classic dusty tannins of Sangiovese. The finish was long with excellent black fruit and licorice flavours together with some spice. This is great drinking now but has the ability to develop more intricate aromas and flavours in the longer term. (Available at Taste of Tradition)
Suzanne Brocklehurst 08/09/09
Tuscany has always been associated with red wines so it was interesting to taste a white produced by the historic household of Ricasoli. Pale golden in colour the smokey, nutty aromas suggested heavy oak influence. The label stated the wine had been fermented in stainless steel and aged in barriques. For consumers who prefer a weighty style of white wine this may well suit your taste. Quite a resinous palate with abundant oak flavours overwhelmed the fruit suggesting that the wine is quite disjointed at this stage of its development. Only time will tell whether or not the essential components of fruit, acid and oak will achieve some balance. (Available at Taste of Tradition)
Le Fonti “Fontissimo” 2004 IGT
Le Fonti is a small wine producer based in Chianti Classico. To be a DOCG the wine must have a minimum of 80% Sangiovese in the blend. As this wine is 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon it automatically belongs to the IGT category. The wine is dense crimson in colour and displays freshly crushed red fruit with a hint of cinnamon spice on the nose. The wine has spent 18 months in new French barriques resulting in a low level of non-aggressive tannins. Medium bodied with generous acidity, there is reasonable concentration of cherry fruit giving the overall impression of a refreshing wine. (Available at Jovis Wines)
Barone Ricasoli “Brolio” Chianti Classico 2006
The name Ricasoli is synonymous with Chianti Classico although the influence of this historic family reaches beyond the enclaves of Tuscany. Baron Bettino Ricasoli became Prime Minister of a recently united Italy in 1860. Amongst his accomplishments the Baron was responsible for instigating the “improvement” of the Chianti blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo by the inclusion of as much as 30% of white Trebbiano and Malvasia. Unfortunately inferior quality Chianti wines resulted as too much of these lesser varieties was included. Today’s regulations require a minimum of 80% Sangiovese and the Brolio tasted was certainly a superior example of a Chianti Classico blend. Dense crimson in colour, the nose showed lifted, quite fragrant classic cherry notes of Sangiovese with underlying savoury characters – very attractive. Dusty tannins, fresh acidity and dense black cherry flavours intermingled on a perfectly balanced palate delivering everything that is expected from a typical Chianti Classico. (Available at Taste of Tradition)
Mazzei, Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2005
The Mazzei family have owned the Castello di Fonterutoli since 1435. The family has moved with the times investing in properties elsewhere in Tuscany, particularly in Maremma, and also in Sicily. This Chianti Classico errs on the more modern side of wine styles as it is concentrated and multi-faceted. High density crimson in colour, the nose was quite closed although there were certainly hints of an underlying concentration of black cherries and some spicy oak. Fragrant spices and attractive fruit complexity on a 2003 tasted on an earlier occasion indicated how well this particular 2005 vintage is likely to develop. On the palate very chalky tannins and high acidity dominated but there was also excellent fruit concentration. This wine shows the potential necessary to evolve, even in the short term, into a delicious wine as the acidity softens and the tannins provide a foil for the concentrated fruit. (Available at Taste of Tradition)
Le Fonti Chianti Classico 2005
Tuscany did not experience the heaven sent 2005 vintage of some other regions. Excessive rainfall posed real challenges for producers and strict selection in the vineyard to protect the overall quality of the wines was necessary. Medium density crimson and showing slightly more evolution than the other 2005 tasted, a less concentrated wine was expected. Charry oak and licorice aromas were evident on the nose. Licorice and black fruit could be found on the palate with reasonable tannins and good acid. This is a wine that demands food to accompany it – no self-respecting Tuscan would have it any other way! (Available at Jovis Wines)
Il Borghetto Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Achieving Riserva status requires 80% Sangiovese (identical to Chianti Classico) but a minimum of 12.5% alcohol and 24 months oak ageing. This particular wine exceeds these criteria – not only is it 100% Sangiovese but it is 14.5% alcohol. The bottle is incredibly heavy suggesting a superior wine that should be taken seriously. Il Borghetto is a small estate found at the northern tip of the Chianti Classico region. The vines are quite young having only been planted a decade ago. The colour is medium plus density garnet and the nose shows some development although it is the oak that dominates at this stage. It is extremely full-bodied in style with chalky tannins, generous acidity and concentrated fruit making it a powerful wine. This is a wine for those who prefer big, bold, ambitious styles. (Available at Jovis Wines)
La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2003
“Brunello” means “little brown one” in Italian and refers to the small, hardy clone of Sangiovese that was isolated from other clones in 1870 by Ferrucio Biondi-Santi. Brunellos (and Barolos from Piedmont) command some of the highest prices amongst Italian wines. These wines have the ability to age and improve over many years but Brunellos, in particular, can be extremely appealing in their youth. Just beginning to show some maturity on the rim with a deep garnet centre, this wine proved to be the highlight of the tasting. The nose was lifted and fragrant with spices and leather complexity. As expected, it was the most concentrated wine of the group with intense red and black cherry fruit. The abundant fruit element was balanced by refreshing acidity and the classic dusty tannins of Sangiovese. The finish was long with excellent black fruit and licorice flavours together with some spice. This is great drinking now but has the ability to develop more intricate aromas and flavours in the longer term. (Available at Taste of Tradition)
Suzanne Brocklehurst 08/09/09
